Last night, Louis Vuitton’s Resort 2020 show took over the TWA Flight Center, the iconic airport terminal at New York City’s John F. Kennedy International Airport. And it wasn’t just the the architectural shoulders on the satin bomber jackets, oversize leather blazers, and diamanté caped tops that took flight, but the sculptural rosy cheekbones and the-bigger-the-better hairstyles of all shapes, sizes, and textures, too. In other words, each model that designer Nicolas Ghesquière sent down the runway was more of an ’80s glamour-puss than the next.
Backstage, makeup artist Pat McGrath painted pouts ruby red using her MatteTrance Lipstick in Forbidden Love, whirled Rose Risqué shadow from her La Vie En Rose Palette on the cheeks and up to the brows for “bold and edgy displays of color,” and then traced heavy wings on the eyes to balance out the face, she says. But while every girl’s visage was dramatically swathed in the red and hot pink pigments, hairstylist Duffy served up a dizzying array of hair looks that amplified the show’s retro-futurist vibes.
“This season, there was a real Blade Runner element,” says Duffy, citing the 1982 sci-fi noir film that was a galvanizing fusion between the decade’s more-is-more beauty and the dystopian fantasies of the time. “It’s Victorian meets neo-punk with the flamboyance of the ’80s,” he explains of the overarching hair theme. Signe Veiteberg opened the show with a sculpted faux pompadour, Rebecca Longendyke sported a high-top in the front with zigzagged lengths in the back, and Clementine Balcaen had her flame-red mane crafted in a slightly tweaked version of the Fall 2019 collection’s showstopping victory-rolled style with a buoyant mass of brushed-out spirals trailing behind her. And then there was Duffy’s ode to the exquisite intricacy and malleability of tightly wound curls with the natural texture of models such as Selena Forrest and Janaye Furman, cast in stunning geometric shapes.
“We took classic, old-fashioned silhouettes and modernized them by reinterpreting and elevating the theme,” explains Duffy of the centuries-spanning styles. “There’s something wonderful about looks that feel referential, but you can't quite put your finger on what they’re supposed to be.” And therein lies the secret to making retro beauty statements feel fresh and, more important, all your own.