A wonderful calm seemed to settle over Milan Fashion Week this season. Whether that had to do with the gorgeous sun and clear skies that graced the Italian fashion capital or was simply a manifestation of la dolce vita is up for debate. No matter which way you slice it, the result was a week’s worth of joy and lightness as far as the best hair and makeup was concerned. Here, the five beauty lessons to take away from the shows.
Reconsider Morning-After Makeup
What happens to the Versace bombshell after a night out on the town? It turns out she wakes up a little bit grunge, or “undone, but done at the same time,” says makeup artist Pat McGrath. Think: a slightly smudged dark waterline with the remnant of a red lip, which remains a fierce, devil-may-care proposition regardless of the time of day.
Commit to a Look Already
Say goodbye to the crowd-pleasing lob. At Prada, hairstylist Guido Palau pushed Miuccia’s women to one extreme or the other: a romantic pair of hip-length braids or a sculptural black bob, each option striking in its own right. About 10 models had their hair dyed black for the show while 10 went bright blonde, proving that with both cut and color, it’s worth going the whole nine yards in whatever direction you choose.
Weird Is Really Wonderful
From the gilded ears and prosthetic tears carefully placed by makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver at Gucci to the zany baby bangs and individually painted lids at Marni (not to mention the over-the-top celebration of camp at Moschino), there has never been a better time to let your freak flag fly.
Slick it Back and to the Side
For Daniel Lee’s highly anticipated debut at Bottega Veneta, hairstylist Paul Hanlon combed models’ lengths back and to the side, leaving the slightest wave and hint of dampness. A similar style emerged at Fendi’s heartfelt ode to Karl Lagerfeld (“slick perfection, just as I hope Karl would have loved,” said hairstylist Sam McKnight), as well as Max Mara and Jil Sander, which means we have a true trend in the making.
When in Doubt, Paint it Black (or Red)
“Black and red are the colors of true rebellion,” McGrath pronounced at Versace. Yet, elsewhere, they conveyed a simple classicism when used with restraint. See the thick black stripe of kohl on a third of the models at Jil Sander, the glossy red lips at Simone Rocha for Moncler, or the six crimson mouths scattered throughout the Tod’s show. A little goes a long way.